Panagrellus redivivus (sour paste nematode)

synonym Panagrellus silusiae (beer nematode)

P. redivivus is a small, free-living (an organism that does not need an intermediate host as in parasites) nematode found in soil. It is closely related to C. elegans, an organism which also frequently studied in science. 

Literature places some confusion on the biology of the organism. Some claim that the nematode is a “self-fertilizing hermaphrodite” with occasional male. Other sources state that reproduction is sexual with no mention of the hermaphroditic tendency. However when speaking of the sexual reproduction and male/female traits, mention of males being “less numerous than the females” may be a significant observation within the context of the first (hermaphrodite) statement. However, the source making the claim of self-fertilization is siteing information from the Riddle Lab, and that information is referring to C. elegans and not P. redivivus. 

Like other small nematodes (as in “vinegar eels” or Tubatrix aceti), the males have a curved tail and are generally smaller than the females. P. redivivus do not lay eggs and are livebearing. They reproduce very quickly, females birthing up to 40 babies every one or two days for most of their life span.  

P. redivivus  live for several weeks, but not more than a month. They grow quickly to maturity (about 3 days) and reach a maximum size (0.45 – 2 mm) in just six days.

There are references that indicate that perhaps the nematodes are somewhat sensitive to light, but generally speaking they are not overly sensitive to stimuli. They move by wiggling in a “snake-like” fashion. These nematodes consist mostly of their reproductive system, a couple of nerve cords and several small muscle groups. They are what one might refer to as “simple.” 

Commonly referred to as “microworms” in the tropical fish hobby, these nematodes have been cultured by aquarium hobbyists since the 1930s. They can used as a substitute for newly hatched brine shrimp (artemia nauplii). As the price of brine shrimp eggs rises and falls on the world market of edible shrimp production, microworms decline and rise in popularity. 

From time-to-time, aquarium hobbyists debate the nutritional value of microworms. Jokes are frequently made that the nutritional value of microworms increases with the increase of the price of brine shrimp cysts.

Other literature, while providing nutritional content information about microworms (48% protein, 21% lipids, 7% glycogen, 1% organic acids, and 1% nucleic acids), do not support the information with references. In a paper for the Journal of World Aquaculture Society, Ricci, Fifi, Ragni, Schlechtriem and Focken  state, “The nutritional value of P. redivivus is high and comparable to that of Artemia.” (dt/ba)

(source : http://www.livefoodcultures.com)

Terminalia catappa (also known as Ketapang or Tropical Almond or Sea Almond or Indian Almond) leaves are becoming very popular as a natural medicine and water conditioner for aquarium use. This guide provides 5 suggestions on how to use them.

Introduction

Ketapang or Sea Almond or Indian Almond or Terminalia catappa leaves are known to most, if not all Asian breeders of blackwater tropical fishes, to be one of the best water conditioners to promote healing and breeding. They are known to have anti-bacteria and anti-fungal properties. Bettas are known to be induced to spawn by just putting a few of the leaves into their tank. Fish suffering finrot or injuries (such as spawning injuries) will definitely benefit from having the leaves in their quarantine tank. But they can be used for the usual aquariums too.

When soaked in water these leaves will leach a strong brown dye that is full of organic acids like humic acids and tannic acids. These may be useful for inhibiting many types of bacteria as well as to detoxify harmful heavy metals found in the aquarium.

It is no wonder that these leaves are often called "Miracle Leaves".

How to use these leaves?

There are at least 5 ways of using them in the aquarium (apart from using them as beautiful leaf-litter in terrariums for frogs, hermit crabs, scorpions and snakes).

Method #1: Directly

This method is simple: Simply put the leaves into your aquarium. After 1-3 days, if your leaves are completely soaked, they will be water-logged and sink. Apart from their benefical effects on the water, they will tan the water slightly (to a clear amber) and provide a very natural stream-bottom look to your aquarium.

How many leaves to use? Well, the simple answer is: As many as you like. But the more leaves you put the darker will be the water and the lower the PH will be (though it is unlikely to drop below 6.0). You can even use the leaves as the substrate in the tank together with bog wood or a tree stump with roots to create a fantastic Amazon look for blackwater fishes.

But as a rule of thumb, you may want to use a couple of small leaves or half to a quarter of a large leaf for a 1 gallon (4 litre) betta tank. If you are spawning the bettas, I would recommend sinking one or more leaves (for the female to hide in) and allowing at least one leaf to float. The male betta will probably build its nest under the floating leaf! With the bubble-nest pushing up the leaf, it will float for long enough for the fries to hatch and become free swimming. 

If you are using the leaves for a larger tank (say, for tetras, gouramis, arrowanas, apistos, plecos, or shrimps), I would recommend putting 2-3 large (or 4-6 small) leaves for every 25 gallons (100 litres). 

You do not really need to change the leaves until they begin to disintegrate in about 3 weeks to a month. In fact, if you have shrimps or plecos, they will devour them when they start to disintegrate.

Method #2: Filter Bag Method

In this method, you will need to get a filter bag (laundry netting or ladies stockings will also do). Crumple up 2-3 large leaves for every 25 gallons, and stuff it into the filter bag. Leave the bag in a compartment of the Overhead Filter near the inlet into the filter. If you use a Canister Filter, leave it in a bottom tray. (Do not simply stuff the leaves into the canister at the top, or you may end up with damaged impellers). The leaves will begin to tan the water in a couple of days. But it will disintegrate over 14-21 days and should be changed.

Remember that when you use filters in the tank, activated carbon will negate any tanning or good properties from the leaves. So the use of activated carbon is not recommended when using Indian Almond Leaves.

Method #3: Soaking Separately

In this method, you will need a bucket or tub of water. Soak the leaves in the bucket. After a few days, you can pour the very tan water into your tank, and then top up (the bucket) with fresh water.

You can also add a spoon full of salt into the bucket (as preservative), and also run airpump to provide circulation and aeration for better results.

Using this method, you can leave the leaves in the bucket until the water from it ceases to be amber coloured.

Method #4: Tea Cup Method

In this method, you will make Indian Almond Tea using either Indian Almond Teabags or simply using the leaves directly.

If you use Teabags, make sure that the bags are hygenically produced with water insoluble material. You may buy such teabags on Ebay. Most teabags contain only one to one and a half leaf.

Put the teabag or a large leaf crumpled up into a cup, and add hot water. Leave it to cool. The water in the cup will have the appearance of strong tea by the time the water cools. Add what you need into the tank, and keep the rest (together with the leaf or the teabag) in the refrigerator.

Conclusion

Which method is better? It is really up to you! 

Remember to wash the leaves thoroughly if they are not already washed by your supplier. If they are washed, just rinse what you need over running water before using them.

Remember that quality leaves that have not been weather-beaten tend to take longer to leach out their beneficial properties, so be patient. If your leaves are weather-beaten, they may leach tannins very quickly, but most of the beneficial properties would already have been washed off by the rain before they are collected. (dt/ba)

(source : http://www.reviews.ebay.com)

A tank is the best home for a betta.

Are you planning on getting a betta fish? Don't just stick him in a bowl or vase! This article explains how to set up a tank that will keep your betta healthy, happy, and handsome.

:: Steps ::

Get everything you need.

Buy a tank. For a single Betta, a 45 litre (9.9 gallon) tank is the smallest you can go. Make sure your tank comes with a hood- Betta are known jumpers, and having a hood can prevent a tragedy. In some countries the animal welfare laws suggests no smaller tank than 40 litres (10 gallons). The RSPCA in the UK state 45 litres min for any fish.

Buy a filter. Like all fish, Betta need clean, filtered water. The filter should have a gentle current or an adjustable flow.

Buy a heater and a thermometer. Betta are tropical fish. They need their water at a constant temperature between 75 and 80 degrees F. (25 C-27 C)

Buy your substrate. Use smooth gravel or sand- you can even use marbles! Rough substrate will tear your Betta's delicate fins. Neutral colors make your bettas colors pop.

Buy decorations. These have to be smooth, also. Betta love caves and things to swim through, so have at least one cave-like decoration. You can also have silk or live plants, but no plastic. Plastic plants are too harsh for Betta fins. Never fill the surface with plants, betta need space to breath the air.

Put it all together.

Put your tank where you want it. It should be out of direct sunlight. Betta are very intelligent, curious fish, so don't tuck the tank in a corner where it won't get much attention.

Put in your substrate and decorations. Leave any live plants until you have it filled up, though!

Fill your tank with water treated with a water conditioners such as Prime and Jungle brand Tank Buddies. You can put a small dish or saucer on the substrate and pour the water over it to avoid messing up your decorations. Once the tank is full, you can add your plants.

Install the heater and filter, following the directions on the package. Turn them both on to make sure everything is working properly. If the current from the filter looks too strong, and your filter is not adjustable, try putting some sponges where the water comes out. This will diffuse the current.

Assemble the hood.

Cycle your tank.

The tank is now ready for a Betta!

:: Video ::

:: Tips ::

If you have live plants, make sure you have the proper lighting.

If the tank is big enough (60 litres/16 gallons) and has lots of hiding places you may put one male and one or two females in same tank. Note that male can be very violent towards females, hence hiding places.

If you want more than one betta, you can get a 10 gallon tank with a divider. This lets you have two bettas in one tank.

:: Warnings ::

Don't put your betta in a bowl or vase! Bowls and vases are not large enough to heat safely, don't provide filtration, and limit your fish's movement.

Be wary of advice you get at the fish store. Do your own research and/or join a forum dedicated to fish.

Never put two male bettas in same tank, they will fight till death. Putting 2 or more females together is possible though. A male will also kill a female if he is not breeding with it. (dt/ba)

(source : http://www.wikihow.com)

Mosquito larva. This my friend is the real true betta food. Bettas eat tones of them in the rice paddies of Thailand, so it is a great choice of food. One slight tiny problem though: finding the damn things. I don’t have mosquito larva where I live (but I guess Florida resident might have better luck) (did I just say “luck” ???). I hate mosquitoes, so I don’t mind not finding their larvas floating about in my water. In short, unless you have them pesky little insects around, you won’t be able to get larva to your bettas. Be careful also to not harvest from dirty water (where bacteria might be flourishing) so you don’t bring a diseases back into your tank.

Live brine shrimp. If you have a lot of money, go for it. You can buy them at your local fish store, and your bettas will love you like, forever. To use as a treat only and as I said earlier, in moderation.

Live worms. (I strongly advise against using this type of food). Brown worms, blood worms, any worms your fish store will sell you, any cultures that will produce live worms, in short bettas LOVE worms. And in this case, you should be able to easily find live worms at your local fish store. I do NOT recommend picking worms from gardens, etc.. As they may have been subjected to pesticides etc… When you feed live worms to your betta, FIRST CLEAN THE WORMS THOROUGHLY. Worms can carry tones of bacteria and parasites. I used to feed live brown worms to my bettas, and brown worms are especially yucky. Although my bettas loved eating them, I soon developed a heavy love/hate relation with the wormies: Invariably, after feeding live food for a period of time, a bacterial outbreak would sweep through my fishroom and the rate of dropsy would climb. No live food, almost never any dropsy. So I finally decided to give them up completely :((. If you like playing with fire, you can feed live worms. To wash live  worms, dump them into a brine shrimp net and let COLD water run on them, rinsing them, for a good one minute. Brown worms need to be stored in a container, with only enough water to cover their bodies (no more) and placed in your refrigerator. You should open the container daily and rinse the worms, whether you intend to use them or not. If you cannot do all the above, then don’t bother with live brown worms, because they will be so unsanitary they will IMMEDIATELY give your fish diseases. Instead go for “once live but now dead” food (see below). Do not feed only live worms to your bettas, it is too rich and needs to be balanced with other foods. This is however a great food to condition your bettas for breeding. Too bad it is so contaminated... (sigh...). You might have luck with cultures that you can grow yourself, hence keeping them clean and free of bacteria. I have had the BEST of luck with my microworms cultures, but only the small fry under 40 days of age will eat them :(((. Larger worms are hard to produce in large enough quantities and usually demands a larger set-up (eats lots of space) and some also smell horrible (on a BIG scale!).

Frozen live food. This is one of the “once live but now dead” food that bettas will eat. It is more expensive, but cleaner and less yucky to manipulate then live food. Freeze it and it will keep for a long time (unlike live food). Unfreeze small portion and feed them to your bettas. One warning though, I believe there is a correlation between frozen foods and parasites, especially ich. Therefore, if you are feeding frozen food, remember to add AQUARISOL to your water to prevent ich. Also if anyone tells you that freezing the worms kills all the germs, you have my permission to slap them around a little bit, maybe it will bring them back to their senses, and to reality. LOL. Although all bacteria is not killed by the freezing process, it does get rid of most, making frozen food my favorite betta food and now a day the only food I allow in my fishroom.

Freeze dried live food. This is another one of the “once live but now dead” food that bettas will eat. I highly recommend it, because unlike the above live foods, it is sterile and will not bring any diseases or parasites into your tanks. You will mainly find two types: Freeze dried bloodworms and freeze dried brine shrimp. Bettas are especially fund of the later, while they sometimes eat the first reluctantly. I feed both to my babies. If you have many bettas, you might consider buying freeze dried food in bulk, it is otherwise pretty expensive. If you are prone to allergies, experiment with this food, I have found that myself and other breeders have a reaction to it (sneezing, temporary asthma, etc…). I use it anyways (aaAAAAA tchA!) Be careful to not feed any freeze dried food that is hard (over cooked if I may say) it will cause internal damage to your bettas. Any little hard piece should be tossed pronto.

Betta bites (and other betta pellets). There are a few different brands of betta food out there, food that were specifically designed for bettas. Most breeders don’t bother with them, because they are expensive and too generic. We prefer to have more control over the protein intake of our fish. But if you are just keeping a few bettas as pets, this is not a bad option, as long as you alternate with something else every now and then. Betta pellets are easy, just throw a few in your jar and you are done :). Bettas might not want to eat pellets if they have had a chance to taste yummy foods such as brine shrimp ;) though!!

Foods that make bettas go "POUAH!!!!"

Flakes. This is good for your generic tropical fish, but not for our royal highnesses :)). Bettas will despise you if you have the audacity to present them with flakes. Oh, you don’t believe me huh? TRY IT!! Check out the ’look’ your betta will give you. He will surely never look at you the same again :))). Save face, don’t ruin your relationship with your betta, stay away from flake food. Some breeders do raise their bettas on flake and only these bettas might then accept to eat flakes throughout their adulthood.

Pellets. Unless starved past sanity, a betta will not eat pellets either. Especially if a live worm has entered, at some point of time, his mouth cavity. Forget it. You are wasting your time, he won’t go for it. Bettas have sensitive taste buds :), they know good food, they are gourmets. Again, if a betta has been raised on pellets then it will eat them. make sure to use only small size pellets, Hikari is probably what breeders use most. I personally have always had the hardest time getting my bettas to eat them :((.

Cubes. Yeah, you know the cubes made of compressed freezed dried worms. My bettas never wanted to eat them. I tried. Tried. Tried some more. And they were like “pfffffft, is she out of her mind?????”. Finally, they won. I gave up. (dt/ba)

(source : http://www.bettatalk.com)

Bettas are weird when it comes to food because on one hand they will eat just about anything (especially things they are not “supposed” to) and on the other, they can be realllllllllly picky. So here is a recap of what bettas will or will not swallow :)), starting with their favorite gourmet food at the top and going down hill from there (down to the “I’m gonna puke” food).

Bettas are funny, because when you feed them something they don’t like, they have that look (yeah, you know, THAT one) on their faces, kinda like saying:

“You expect me to eat “that” ????”. They can be real snobs. However, if you give them something they love then it is the “SLURP GROM GLOUPS SLURP CRONCH CRONCH” they just gobble everything up with such enthusiasm and will continue doing so until they turn into little ballons. I often tenderly refer to them as my “little finned piglets” :)).

How often to feed. I recommend feeding your adult bettas once a day and your fries twice a day. If you really have nothing better to do, then you could also feed your adults twice a day, but cut the quantity of feed in half. You don’t want obese bettas, now, do you? :))

How much to feed. People think they have to feed their bettas until they explode, and that bettas will get big and strong that way. More than likely what will happen is that the bettas will not eat all the food, the uneaten food will rot in the jars/tanks, polluting the water and bacteria will promptly flourish in such an environment. In turns, the bacteria will attack the bettas, which will become sick. So rule number one in betta feeding is DON’T OVERFEED!!! Feed as much as your betta can eat in 2 mn, and no more. Try to achieve a softly rounded belly. Your betta should not look pregnant :P. On the other hand, If your betta’s belly looks “hollow” or too flat, then you are either not feeding him enough, or he has a bacterial infection causing him to waste away (or internal parasites).

To illustrate this "softly rounded belly" concept, I have picked the following four photos. Please look at the area right were the ventrals start (inside the red circle):

This betta has the perfect softly rounded belly shape

This betta is borderline too rounded

This female ate too much

This one is out of control LOL

Overfeeding can cause serious problem. Double Tail bettas will have swimbladder problem if you over feed them. They will start floating and may take up to several weeks to recover! So with DTs, it is even more important to not overdo it when it comes to food. Also when feeding live food, especially live brine shrimp, you must be aware that bettas will not stop eating until all the live food has been gobbled up. Twice I lost bettas that way. I kid you not. You will find them dead the next day. So only feed reasonable amounts of live food to your bettas, because in your fishroom, you are the only one with any ability to refrain things from getting out of hands. Your bettas can't and won't. They'll eat themselves to death. Literally. Wise buffalo has spoken.

Skip a day. It is a good idea to not feed your betta one day a week. Let his digestive system rest, let him clean himself out a bit. This does not mean that you should feed your betta whenever you remember, and that it is OK to feed him on and off and skip several days. You should feed him daily, and then skip one day every week.

Remove uneaten food: so it won’t rot and pollute your betta’s water. Some foods foul the water more than others. Uneaten food = food for bacteria = bacteria party/orgy= lots of bacteria joining the fun= bacteria then moving on to betta's body and latching on to it like leeches= sick betta= dead betta=depressed betta breeder. Hence I can simplify the equation by saying that uneaten food =  you no happy

How long can a betta live without eating? I am not sure exactly how many days, but what I do know is that they can survive without food for a long time. I had a sick betta who ate a half a live worm once a week and lasted three month that way. I know that bagged bettas have been reported to have survived in their sealed bags up to three weeks. So I guess, what I am trying to say is, if you are leaving on a week-end trip and won’t be home to feed your betta for 3 days, don’t sweat it. He won’t starve or anything :). Again that does not mean that you should not feed your bettas with punctuality. (dt/ba)

(source : https://www.bettatalk.com)

A prevalent question among Betta owners is whether or not a light is necessary for the needs of their Betta fish. The obvious answer is – “Yes”. Without a doubt some sort of lighting is necessary for the health and well-being of your Betta fish. Light signals to the fish when it’s morning, noon, and night. Keeping your Betta bowl or tank close to a window is just not enough for those people living in temperate climates. Remember that Bettas are tropical fish that live close to the equator where the sun shines every day and where there is no winter.

Betta’s Biological Clock

Betta fish just like humans have a biological clock and prefer a stable sleep schedule. In the wild they normally sleep as soon as night sets in and wake up right before sunrise. But since Bettas are kept indoors their natural sleep cycles can become easily disrupted. Any interruptions will cause physical stress to the fish which leads to a comprised immune system and later disease. Having an aquarium light providing adequate lighting for your Betta’s bowl or tank is the best investment in your fish’s health. In addition, equipping the light with an automatic timer will ensure uninterrupted and quality sleep patterns for your fish. (dt/ba)

(source : http://www.bettafishbubble.com)

Betta splendens, also known as "Bettas" and "Siamese fighting fish", are popular pets recognized for their aggressiveness, interactiveness, and relatively low cost for maintenance and care. Betta fish can prove to be man's best friend for up to four years. Follow these tips to make sure your new pal has a happy and healthy life. They are not to be placed with other fish because of their extreme territorial behaviour. They don't take a lot of space. They also enjoy real plants in their habitats and it's also a very good accessory.

:: Steps ::

Research. It should be noted that typical large box stores don't usually provide good information. You might consider researching online at sites like bettafish.com,bettatalk.com, ibcbettas.org, etc. You should have a general understanding of what to look for before buying. When purchasing your Betta fish, think about these main things:

Color. Is the Betta's color bright and vivid, or is it very dull and pale? Bettas come in a variety of colors, but blues and reds (dark colors in general) are most common.
Receptiveness. Does the betta respond to your movement at all? Does it swim around rapidly when seeing you, or does it merely sit at the bottom and sulk? Don't repeatedly tap container, as it agitates them, and try moving your finger in front of the Betta instead. Don't be afraid to buy a somewhat docile Betta though; they generally have many encounters with other people during their day, and may simply be resting.
Overall health. Are its fins in good condition, or are they torn or otherwise damaged? Are the Betta's eyes in good shape? Do you see any odd lumps (parasites) on its body? If you see anything highly out of the ordinary, consider another Betta.
The right one. Sometimes, the fish will choose you, not the other way around. If there is one Betta that you look at, set down, move on from it, but are drawn back to it repeatedly, consider buying it. Even if it is not completely healthy, buy the fish you feel connected to, rather than the healthiest one there. He will likely heal up once out of the tiny cup and in warm, clean water.

Prepare your Betta's home. You should always have a proper set up ready before bringing home your new pet. This prevents possible mishaps. Here are some points to consider:

Choose a home. In the wild, Bettas inhabit Thai rice paddies. Hence, they are fitted to living in relatively shallow but spacious environments. However, consider giving your betta a decent sized tank to help prolong its life. Bettas deserve a good home. Pick a tank of 5 gallons or more for your betta to thrive. It may seem a lot, but it's what your fish deserves.

Add the necessary equipment. The average Betta bought in a pet store has been bred to withstand a lot of the hassles of a pet life style. Make sure to get a heater with a thermostat. Bettas like water temperatures between 76-82F. Filters are always necessary in but make sure the current is not too strong for your betta.

Avoid jagged rocks or decorations, as they tear Betta fins.Make sure once a day that there are no tears in the betta's fins. If there are tears, first check the water quality. Tears are typically caused by poor water maintenance.

Avoid hard plastic plants, as they can be rough on the fins. Use the 'pantyhose test': If a plastic plant will snag a pair of pantyhose when rubbed against it, then it will damage your betta's fins. Be safe and buy silk plants instead. Think about what it would be like rubbing-up against plastic all of the time!! You can compare a plastic bag and a silk blanket/scarf to see what works best for you

Live plants are a great idea. They're prettier than fake ones, and Bettas love lounging on the leaves and hiding in them to sleep. Live plants also help to oxygenate the water and keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time.

Prepare the water. Use a water conditioner such as Prime before putting fresh tap water in the tank, as chlorine and chloramines can harm Bettas as well as kill off all that beneficial bacteria housed in the filter. Older sources may suggest aging the water (standing it for a time) but it's best to use a water conditioner, as aged water removes chlorine but not chloramine and heavy metals. It is a not a good idea to use bottled water because this deprives your betta of necessary minerals and is not fish 'safe'. Treated tap water is cheaper and a better alternative.

Fill your tank. If your tank is without a top cover, fill it about 80% high to ensure your fish won't leap out. Bettas are very active and can jump over 3 inches when motivated!

Add your Betta.Being careful, slowly tip the container in which you received your Betta into the new habitat so that the new water and old water can mix, making the water easier for your fish to adjust. This way, if you're habitat water is much colder or warmer than the previous water, it will not put the fish in shock. Be gentle!

Feed your Betta. Your Betta's diet should consist primarily of pellets. For special occasions feed frozen brine shrimp or blood worms. Check the ingredients of your pellets. The first three should be protein based. Experts say protein in the pellets should be no less than 40%. Tropical fish flakes, goldfish flakes, etc are not for bettas.

Feed your Betta no more than 3 pellets every other day!. This is very important, as overfeeding is the number one cause of death. Bettas will continue eating as long as you feed them and will eat themselves to death. Also, overfeeding can cause bloating of your Betta fish. Though, this is not as serious as a similar condition referred to as dropsy, it can however cause bladder problems later on that can be fatal.

Clean up any extra food that your Betta does not eat. Similarly, watch your Betta to see if he spits up any food. This could be a sign that your Betta is a picky eater. Try another brand of pellets or dried food.

Though live food may be exciting to watch, frozen and dried products still work great. They are safer and free from potential parasites. Frozen or dried blood worms are a great treat.

Clean your Betta's tank. Place your Betta in container filled with old water while washing. Simply wash the tank with hot water, as some soaps will harm your Betta. If your habitat has rocks, rinse them thoroughly. Fill the habitat half way with fresh tap water, return the Betta and some of the old water, and then fill the rest with tap water again.

To learn more about how to care for your Betta fish, try asking someone who owns one or perhaps a pets store employee. Also, don't just take what your hear as true. Perhaps check your local library or reliable research site online.

Be sure to add a de-chlorinator (also known as a water conditioner) to the water, this will remove harmful chlorine/chloramine that is in tap water that would kill your fish and filter bacteria.

Be sure that the water you are changing is the same temperature as the old water the betta was in to avoid temperature shock which can be deadly to your betta. Use an in tank thermometer to check the water temperatures.

In order to test water parameters each week you will need a master fresh water test kit. This will allow you to monitor your aquarium and take readings.

Have fun with your new friend!. Do not provoke your betta fish by tapping the glass often, but you can play with it by moving your finger around the tank and watching him follow you. Don't forget to name your fish!

:: Tips ::

'Bettas' are members of the Anabantoid family (gouramis are also in this family) and have a back-up breathing system that allows them to breathe surface air, however, they still require a filtration system in their tanks. Bear in mind, the long-finned varieties do best with as little current as possible.

Bettas may require a heater in some cases for example if you live in a cold country or if you have an aquarium below room temp then a heater would be advised. Mini heaters are available for betta tanks between 1-3 gallons these are ideal for your little friend. During the winter you may want to add a mini heater or place your aquarium close to a radiator (1 m away) this will prevent your betta from becoming too cold.

Bettas recognize their owners and will actually learn faces and games. Keep your betta company and say "hi" once in a while, so he learns who you are! Bettas can and do recognize people (mainly because they associate you with feeding time).

Female Bettas are typically smaller and without the beautiful finnage that males possess, however, they can still be equally as beautiful in their own way—and feisty!.

If a male likes a female, he flares his gills, twists his body, and spreads his fins. If a female likes a male, she wriggles back and front.

If your Betta gets sick, treat it with a proper medication whether it be an antibiotic, anti-fungal or an anti-parasitic. You can purchase these at your local fish store, most will need to be ordered ahead of time, always be prepared!

Avoid netting a Betta when possible, as this can damage their fins. Instead, try to use a small cup when transporting your Betta.

Male Betta fish build bubble nests when happy!

Avoid keeping Bettas with other fish.They can kill others!

Putting a mirror up to the side of the tank makes Bettas flare because they think that there is a rival in their territory, but it can stress them out.

Remember that your betta fish is fragile. Many people say they are "hardy" fish and people assume that they can rearrange the tank or remove the betta often for cleaning, but this is not true. Betta fish are only hardy to different water types such as hard and soft water, Meaning you should not change the water or rearrange the aquarium often.

:: Warnings ::

Most people keep betta fish in bowls or small tanks-this is not ideal for betta fish and will require frequent 100% water changes to avoid deadly ammonia build up (see above), so it is recommended to have a larger cycled tank.

If you are starting a new tank, be sure to learn about the Nitrogen Cycle (also called the biological cycle) before adding your betta. If you introduce your fish before the tank is cycled, it could die from ammonia or nitrite poisoning.

Male Bettas cannot live with other male Bettas. They are named Siamese Fighting Fish for a reason! In an aquarium setting, they will fight to the death in order to protect their living space, regardless of the size of the tank. If your tank does not have a partition, do not risk losing one or both of your Bettas by allowing them to live together.

If you have a relatively large tank, you might consider having another fish to coexist with your Betta. Although some Bettas will tolerate tank mates, it is better to leave the fish with its own space. Avoid purchasing another fish that are brightly colored (such as fancy guppies), or fish with long flowing fins(again; guppies, goldfish etc) where your Betta might mistake it for another betta. Also avoid other aggressive fish or fin-nippers such as barbs. Danios, some tetras and most rasboras will work. Bottom feeders such as corydoras and ottos (otocinclus) are also good choices. Read fish forums online for suggestions.

Female Bettas will fight males and vice versa. Don't put them in together. Read up on breeding them if you think you want to try it, but remember that breeding bettas is a huge commitment, and not something to be taken lightly.

Bettas are sensitive to changes in temperature. In general a change in 2 to 3 degrees can lower its immune system, therefore,there is a need for a heater in your tank.

Do not use distilled water. Distilled water is actually water with all other minerals and nutrients removed. Bettas do not naturally live in distilled water and forcing them to do so can be harmful to their health.

Keep females either singly or in groups of at least five to lessen aggression. The tank must be at least 10 gallons and have several hiding spots if keeping multiple females. All females must be added at the same time. Don't place only two female Bettas in your tank. They establish a "pecking order" and having only two female fish means that the less dominant one gets picked on exclusively.

No matter what the pet store staff or anybody else may say, don't put your Betta in a tiny bowl, vase, or cup! Pet stores usually do this because they don't have enough money or space to keep thirty or so 5 gallon tanks for a single fish. Place it in at least a 5 gallon aquarium or larger if it will share the tank with other fish. Your fish will enjoy having room to move around and it will get more exercise. You will also enjoy watching it more if it can move around and play a bit.

If possible, keep the lid on. Your fish might jump out!

:: Things You'll Need ::

Tank (1.5-10+ gallons)

Water conditioner (dechlorinator to make tap water safe for fish)

Fish net (brine shrimp nets work best); since nets might harm the fins, however, you may prefer to use a cup.

Betta fish food (high in protein)

Smooth stones or pool filter gravel to cover the bottom.

Some ornament to decorate your tank, doubling as structure for your betta to rest upon. Dragging fins makes your betta prone to bacteria on the floor of the tank which can lead to fin rot.

A Betta fish.

:: Warnings ::

Don't let multiple males or females be together because they can fight with each other.

Do not put a baby Betta fish with an adult because the baby Betta will fight with the adult. (dt/ba)

(source : http://www.wikihow.com)